Image 108 of 155: Full Resolution

Eventually we get to our line, and are astonished to find a farmhouse sitting right where we want, with kids out front front. These are virtually the only people outside we've seen all day.

I sharpen up my Spanish (dormant since living in Mexico City a decade ago!), and chat up the locals. They take us back behind their sheds and showed us the train track, from which there's a decent view of the southeast sky.

"But you should talk with Don Reynaldo up the hill. It's very nice up there, and you can see everything from his place!"